![]() ![]() So here’s our recommendation– After you complete basic assembly, Power up your DIYPNP one of two ways. Note that you can power up the DIYPNP off the vehicle on a power supply connected to the power jack next to the DB15 connector. This is to prevent damage to your ignition system in case the default settings are not correct for your vehicle. The base ignition settings contained in these maps should be loaded on your DIYPNP before you power your car up (with the key) with the DIYPNP installed. We’re including these maps prior to showing you how to jumper your DIYPNP up. msq files to help you get your car fired up safely and quickly. What tools you’ll need: Soldering Iron, Solder, maybe some desoldering braid in case you make a mistake. Perfect for getting rid of a restrictive AFM/MAF with your DIYPNP install. ![]() This is a simple kit with an IAT sensor, wire pigtail, crimp pins to poke into the AFM Connector to run the signal back to the ECU, and a steel or aluminum bung (hence the -A and -S in the part numbers). ![]() It is particularly nice to be able to flash the firmware and load your configuration on the bench instead of in the vehicle, and allows for less risk of damaging something on the vehicle due to incorrect settings.ġ- PNP_IAT-A or PNP_IAT-S AFM/MAF Delete kit. The adapter is needed when the laptop or PC you are using does not have a built in DB9 serial port.ġ- StimPower This is a power supply that is normally sold to power a stimulator, but another use is it can be plugged directly into the DIYPNP mainboard to power the ECU directly, allowing you to load the basemaps and do limited testing on the ECU prior to installing the ECU in your vehicle. This is the main DIYPNP Kit including the Nippon Denso style 76-pin connector and all components, case, etc.ġ- Tuning Cable This is the same DB9 serial tuning cable used in other MegaSquirt applications.ġ- USB Adapter This is a DB9 serial to USB adapter. Right now if I put alligator clips between the two at the harness and the one at the MAF, it doesn't start, but if I also ground that connection it starts up fine.1- DIYPNPN76-K Kit. MAF Wiring: When I put the engine into this shell I found that the insulation on the MAF sensor wires was gone, and the black wire (with green stripe I think?) was cut and stripped at both ends, but at the harness side there were two black (with green stripe?) wires cut and stripped. So, is it possible that it is going into some sort of limp mode due to reading 0 oil pressure?Īs in, would buying the proper ~$200 90-94 sender likely fix my issue? After plugging in the wire to the 95 sender, I get no reading still. Looking into it, 94 was the only model year with the 1.8l engine that had the old (real) oil pressure sender, and 95 and newer had a essentially a dummy light sender. I was able to drive around for a while, then the RPM issue came up. Verified it did in fact have oil, and I hadn't changed anything else since pulling the motor that would affect oil pressure (ran fine previously) so I figured I just missed plugging it in that sensor. Oil Pressure Sender: First time I started it up I noticed no oil pressure, according to the gauge. It seemed plug and play, unless there is some process to installing them properly that I am totally unaware of. I pulled the sensor on my spare engine and replaced it. I plugged it up and now it idles better, the RPM issue still persists.Ĭam Sensor: In the process of putting the motor in, I damaged the (intake) cam sensor. Vacuum Leak: (Resolved) There was a vacuum leak, on the intake manifold, one of the nipples that gets plugged. The main issue is that when it first starts up it's fine and revs ok, but then after 20 seconds or so it won't rev past 2200rpms. Got a 94 shell/body that I put the good running motor from my 95 into. ![]()
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